We start the new day with a chilly breath!
In the true sense of the word, there is a “breeze” that takes away!
Below you can see my model that gives a demonstration of this.
Grianàn of Aileach
Grianàn of Aileach is probably the most famous historical monument in Inishowen (another Donegal peninsula) and the view from up here is wonderful.
Or at least I’m sure it is since today is not really the perfect day to appreciate the view.
The fort dates back to 1700 BC and is linked to the Tuatha de Danann.
They invaded Ireland before the Celts and thus built the first fortifications.
These peoples worshiped Dagda (the Good God) and it’s thought that it was this King-God who ordered the construction of the fort.
The fort was a funerary monument to his son Aedh.
Most of the fort is built without mortar and inside has three terraces and wooden structures that served as accommodation.
Below are still the remains of the ramparts of the Bronze and Iron Ages.
Legend tells that the giants of Inishowen (the Ui Neill) lie here asleep; ready to awaken when the sacred sword is unsheathed, descending to reclaim their ancient land.
Another legend tells us that here was the palace of hibernation of Graine, the Celtic goddess of the sun.
It is thought that St. Patrick also visited this place and that here he baptized Eoghan, the local chief, in the 5th century.
To emphasize the importance of the site think that it was one of the five Irish places that Ptolemy of Alexandria marked on his world’s map in the 2nd century!
Fort Dunree
Fort Dunree (Dun Fhraoigh in Irish, meaning “Fort of the Erica”) has been an important defensive site throughout its history, in fact it overlooks the strategic Lough Swilly.
This fjord was used first by the Norwegians then by the Anglo-Normans.
Then by the mercenary soldiers and finally by the Gallowglasses when they decided to settle in Ireland.
In more recent times, during the World War I, the British Grand Fleet took refuge right here.
They built a small fort in 1798 to prevent the possible return of an invasion.
Only shortly before the World War II did the fort end up in Irish hands who used it to check Ireland’s respect for neutrality during the war.
Unfortunately we didn’t see it.
A gentleman basically closed the door in our face saying that it could not be visited.
We still took a walk around to shoot some nice pictures!
Mamore Gap
To get to the next itinerary point we passed by the Mamore Gap.
It’s a winding stretch of road that is just a wonder.
The wind is too strong for the drone so I can not show it from above but it really deserves to lengthen your itinerary a little to travel it (better if you do it coming from the south, as on the top there is the whole panorama of the peninsula and it is really breathtaking).
This pass has long been the only connection between Urris and Buncrana, I can’t imagine the traffic!
It was also a pilgrimage site for many years and still today they hold a mass there to celebrate the years of the Penal Laws, when Catholics were obliged to practice their worship in secret.
This road is also called “The magic road” for a reason; if you come from the south, once you pass the sacred source (the one with the white statue) you will find on your left a white stone quite visible.
What you have to do is simple: stop the car and put the handbrake, then leave in neutral and then release the handbrake.
For an optical effect it will seem that the car goes alone uphill! Obviously the car is going downhill but the impression is that a strange force makes you go uphill without accelerating!
Here we are in Inishowen
The name of this peninsula, Inishowen, comes from Inis Eoghain which means “Eoghan Island”.
Eògan mac Neill, son of Niall of the Nine Hostages, was the head of a clan that was so powerful that it was besieged by the King of Limerick (if the king bothered for this clan he must have been afraid of it).
This ruler came to the north and ordered the destruction of the Grianan of Aileach.
Each soldier also had to take away a stone to prevent its reconstruction.
Our next stop on this peninsula is at Glenevil Falls which, as happened with those of Assaranca, go at full speed. Unlike the other waterfalls, which I recommend seeing after a beautiful rainy day, these in my opinion are more beautiful when there is less reach, today in fact they are a wall of water that soaks and prevents you from taking a “dry” photo.
The walk of about a kilometer to get there is still pleasant and every now and then if you are lucky you can see the houses of the Fairies.
I recommend you, don’t disturb them.
The Wee people are usually nice but they can be very dangerous if they get angry, in Ireland there are hundreds of stories that testify this.
A really cute Craft Shop
In the area I recommend you visit the “Glendowen Craft Shop”, a cute shop of local products where quality is not wasted. Ask the owner if she can show you her loom, it’s a wonder and they saved it from destruction by giving it back to full life!
Here we adopted Tommy, our travel mascot, a real sheep of the North!
I didn’t choose the name at random, the owner owns in fact some sheep that she told us to call all Tommy.
Maybe the sheep are actually very smart but being called all by the same name confuses them!
The beaches are never lacking
Five Finger Strand, its name comes from the five stacks that protrude from the water on the north side.
This beautiful beach is surrounded by some of the highest grassy dunes (the grassy part is called Marram grass and is indispensable to keep the dunes still) in Europe.
Pay attention to the access to this beach; the high tide submerges the walkway and you may get stuck and have to climb the dunes to get back to the car.
We conclude our tour of Inishowen at the unmissable Malin Head.
Malin Head
We park right at Banba’s Crown, where the old tower used as a signal station that connected America and Europe stands out.
This tower was initially built, in 1805, as part of a series of buildings used as watchtowers against a possible invasion French. Later it was taken over by Marconi and used precisely as a signal station.
In 1870 the first weather reports were recorded here and in 1902 the first wireless message was sent to the ship SS Lake Ontario.
The name of the place comes from the goddess Banba, of the mythological tribe of the Tuatha Dè Danann, who is said to have inhabited Ireland well before the Celts.
Banba and his sisters, Eriu and Fòdla, became the patron goddesses who represented the sovereignty and spirit of Ireland.
The waters of Malin Head are full of sunken U-boats and ocean liners, so if you’re a diving lover you could join the various enthusiasts who dive in search of these wrecks.
From this point you can see the island of Inashtrahull and its lighthouse, if you are really lucky you will also see the Scottish hills!
The storm will not stop us!
We are not so lucky, darkness falls and the wind is unleashed; luckily it pulls towards the land and we know not to run the risk of ending up in the sea.
Reason why, let’s go for a walk, don’t we? How do you get to the northernmost point of Ireland and not explore a little?
We struggle to get to Hell’s Hole.
Let’s say we see it from afar since it’s a huge crevasse in the coast and the risk of ending up in it on a stormy day like this is high.
On a good day you can also reach the Devil’s Bridge and walk on it, but again, pay attention to the weather!
Malin Head is also the beginning/ end of the Wild Atlantic Way, the most beautiful coastal road in Ireland, so rich in history and wonderful places that the best advice you can give is to rent a van and have at least 2 months of vacation to be able to visit it all!
If what I’ve written is still not enough for you, this is where they shot some of the most famous scenes of Star Wars: The Last Jedi!
If you don’t know how we got here or what will become of us… here are the buttons.
I live in Inishowen, and appreciate the effort you put into this article. Thank you for visiting. I am disappointed with your reception at Dunree military museum, it was unfortunate, and less than professional.
Thank you! I really enjoyed visiting Inishowen, it’s an amazing peninsula and I want to come back, maybe during summer.
About the Museum, maybe it wasn’t a good day for the man, it happens.